October 28 Takadanobaba
Tsukiji Fish Market, around Tokyo station, Ginza
Up in the morning, jet-lagged so really early, first
destination the traditional Tsukiji Tour.
Tasty sushi for breakfast at a place called Ryu,
just across the way from the Fish Market, and
down the street from the nearby Namiyoke Inari
shrine, where I got that sticker
I wanted.
(Not a good reproduction because
the scanner doesn't handle metal flake very well.)
Back to the Green Hotel for checkout; then, over
to the TIC. A visit to the Tourist Information
Center in Yurakucho is another traditional first-day
activity - gotta know what's happening. (It's
moved a block north from its old storefront location
to the lower level of the new, glassy Tokyo
International Forum, which is like a convention
center.) Then some bookstore browsing in nearby
Kanda - was thinking about lunch at this little
eel place, until I realized what was sloshing
around in the unattended bucket out front - must've
been a recent delivery, I realize the freshness
should've been a plus, but that seemed a little
too fresh, made me somewhat queasy.
Eventually checked in at the
Toko
Hotel, right next to Gotanda station
on the Yamanote - this would be my trip's most
expensive lodgings, about $95 a night. They gave
me a high-up room, on the 13th floor - that's
the one superstitious Americans skip, right?
In such plush accommodations one might expect a
little more than the
basic
business hotel furnishings, and behold:
the toilet had one of those control panels wimpy
correspondents on expense accounts get into such a
state about. (I've read several of these: pressing
button expecting a flush, shrieks of dismay, leaping
off the seat as a jet of water arcs through the air,
embarrassment of wet clothes, etc.) I had no
difficulties mastering the mechanism, and must
report that it's a supreme pleasure, this
post-movement ability to direct a powerful, warm,
pencil-thin stream of water directly into your anus.
As they say, "Leave it to Tojo!" (Actually,
Toto - that firm's name was prominent
on a lot of the bathroom fixtures.)
After watching some television, a bit of some
samurai drama, and then transfixed, an episode
of the new
Gundam series; rode the Yamanote line up
to Takadanobaba. Heard there were things of
interest around this station, but my information
must've been out-of-date, couldn't find them.
Had a sashimi dinner, which contained my first
serving of a whole raw shrimp - how to
do this!? I recall from a chopstick book that the
ultimate hashi challenge is to peel a
shrimp; but where to begin? Eventually I just
picked the thing up, dexterously grasping both
head and tail between thumb and fingers - then
I could dunk the meaty middle into the soy and
bite it off. In later experimentation with whole
shrimp I learned the head could be pulled off
even more easily than the tail.
Nearby, a video arcade caught my interest, for the
machine right at the front. I watched its idle
displays cycle for a bit, and then a seasoned
player sat down.
Back home the "driving" machine is a mainstay of the
arcade; here in Japan, where there's so many trains,
you can drive a simulation
(just as R.Crumb suggested would be possible, in
The
City of the Future). Although operational details
were obscure (since I couldn't read most of the
on-screen messages) it was apparent that points
were awarded for accuracy of platform stopping
position. On my way back to the station I popped
into a Mr. Donut, where among other things I had
one labeled tofu - a torus chewier and more
slender than the usual. I was hoping to find
the product called "My Father's Fist" which
T.R. Reid said
this multinational makes available in their
Malaysian branches, but apparently not in Japan.
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